Some of the best food innovations happen when you stop following the rules.
We looked at the traditional cakoi and saw more than just a breakfast staple.
Most Malaysians know this crispy fried dough as a savory companion to porridge or Bak Kut Teh.
Our team at Soooka Cafe asked a different question.
What happens if we treat this local icon like a high-end pastry?
The result is our Cakoi with Coconut Ice Cream and Jackfruit.
This dish has become a signature item on our desserts and beverages menu at our Damansara Perdana cafe since we opened in August 2023.
It surprises first-time visitors.
Regulars order it without even looking at the menu.
Let’s break down why this combination works and how we construct it.
The Origin: Elevating Street Food
Cakoi has a long history that dates back to the Southern Song Dynasty in China.
It arrived in Malaysia and became a morning comfort food.
You usually see it torn into pieces and dipped in kopi o or savoury curry.
Street vendors sometimes sprinkle it with sugar, but few have pushed it further.
We drew inspiration from a global counterpart.
Churros underwent a massive transformation from Spanish shepherd food to a premium international dessert.
You see churros served in high-end cafes with chocolate ganache and artisan toppings.
This parallel made us realize that cakoi had the same potential.
Fried Dough Around the World
We analyzed how other cultures treat similar ingredients to refine our approach.
| Dish | Origin | Texture Profile | Traditional Serving |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cakoi | Malaysia/China | Airy, chewy, salty-savoury | Porridge, Curry, Kopi |
| Churros | Spain | Dense, crunchy ridges | Chocolate dip, Cinnamon sugar |
| Beignets | France/USA | Pillowy, soft interior | Powdered sugar mound |
| Soooka Cakoi | Fusion | Crisp exterior, airy pockets | Coconut ice cream, Gula Melaka |
Cakoi actually holds an advantage over churros for this specific dessert.
Its large, airy pockets are perfect for catching melting ice cream and syrup.
Why Coconut Ice Cream?
The choice of ice cream was a matter of chemistry and culture.
We specifically chose coconut over vanilla or chocolate to honor the Malaysian palate.
Coconut, or kelapa, acts as the creamy foundation for nearly all local desserts.
The Science of “Santan”
Commercial ice creams often rely on heavy cream or milk powder.
We focus on the fat content derived from coconut milk, known locally as santan.
High-quality coconut ice cream must have a specific fat percentage to create the right mouthfeel.
- Texture: Coconut fat has a lower melting point than butterfat.
- Release: It melts quickly on the tongue to release flavour immediately.
- Balance: The natural savoury note in coconut milk compliments the salt in the cakoi dough.
This creates a “cold counterpoint” to the hot dough.
Thermal shock creates a sensory experience that room-temperature desserts cannot match.
You get the hot crunch of the dough followed instantly by the cold, velvety melt of the ice cream.
The Role of Jackfruit
Jackfruit is often overlooked in modern cafe menus.
We believe the J33 variety, often called “Nangka Madu” or Honey Jackfruit, is the gold standard for this application.
This specific cultivar is prized in Malaysia for its firm, crunchy flesh and golden colour.
Flavour Complexity
Ripe jackfruit offers more than just sweetness.
It brings a tropical complexity that refined sugar lacks.
- Aromatics: Hints of banana and pineapple.
- Acidity: A subtle tang that cuts through the rich coconut cream.
- Chew: A fibrous texture that contrasts with the crispy dough.
We slice fresh pods daily to ensure the texture remains firm.
Soggy or overripe fruit would ruin the structural integrity of the dish.
The jackfruit acts as a bridge between the creamy ice cream and the chewy dough.
The Gula Melaka Drizzle
The final component is strictly traditional.
We use Gula Melaka, which is palm sugar derived from the coconut palm.
Authentic Gula Melaka differs significantly from brown sugar or molasses.
It possesses a smoky, butterscotch quality that comes from the traditional boiling process.
Our kitchen prepares a reduction that is thick enough to cling to the cakoi but fluid enough to drizzle.
This syrup pools at the bottom of the plate.
It mixes with the melting ice cream to form a secondary sauce as you eat.
The Assembly
Timing determines the success of this dessert.
We never use pre-fried dough.
The cakoi hits the fryer only when the order docket prints.
It must reach the table while the internal steam is still escaping.
The Construction Process
The plate is built with speed and precision:
- The Base: Three to four pieces of freshly fried cakoi are plated hot.
- The Cold Core: A scoop of dense coconut ice cream is placed immediately beside the dough.
- The Texture: Fresh J33 jackfruit slices are scattered for visual and textural contrast.
- The Finish: Warm Gula Melaka is drizzled in a thin stream over the peaks of the dough.
- The Garnish: A pinch of toasted coconut flakes or mint adds the final aromatic touch.
The result is a dish that demands immediate attention.
How to Eat It
We have observed hundreds of customers navigate this dish.
There is no wrong way to eat it, but some methods maximize the experience.
Recommended Techniques
- The “All-in-One”: Tear a piece of warm cakoi. Press it into the ice cream. Spear a piece of jackfruit. Eat it all at once for the maximum thermal contrast.
- The “Sop” Method: Treat the cakoi like a sponge. Let the ice cream melt slightly into the Gula Melaka. Use the dough to mop up this rich, creamy sauce.
- The Purist: Taste each element separately to understand the quality of the ingredients. Then combine them.
Most diners switch to the “All-in-One” method after the first bite.
The contrast is simply too satisfying to ignore.
Why This Dessert Works
Success in dessert pairing comes down to biological triggers.
We designed this dish to hit multiple sensory points simultaneously.
| Element | Primary Sensation | Function |
|---|---|---|
| Hot Cakoi | Savoury/Crisp | The vehicle and textural base |
| Coconut Ice Cream | Cold/Creamy | The fat carrier for flavour |
| Jackfruit | Sweet/Chewy | The aromatic high note |
| Gula Melaka | Smoky/Syrupy | The binding agent |
Remove one element, and the structure collapses.
The salt in the cakoi amplifies the sweetness of the Gula Melaka.
The cold ice cream prevents the fried dough from feeling too heavy or greasy.
A Malaysian Dessert for the Modern Era
This dish represents our vision for Malaysian cafe culture.
We aim to take familiar ingredients and present them with the care usually reserved for French pastries.
The ingredients are local.
The presentation is modern.
Whether you need a mid-afternoon pick-me-up or a finale to a savoury meal, this pairing delivers.
Visit us at Soooka Cafe in Damansara Perdana to experience it.
Francis & Esther
Founders & Owners
Francis and Esther are the husband-and-wife team behind Soooka Cafe in Damansara Perdana, Petaling Jaya. Driven by a passion for reimagining Malaysian comfort food, they founded Soooka in 2023 to create a cosy neighbourhood space where heritage flavours meet modern cafe culture.
